Chapter 55 : Mount Kinabalu - Part 1 - The one that changes everything...
26/8/2024: Day 1, Heading to Kinabalu
Left home at 5 AM to catch my 9:15 AM flight to Kota Kinabalu. Khaled drove me to the airport and dropped me off at 6:30 AM. Met up with Siti, and we checked in our luggage before grabbing a quick breakfast of coffee and a chicken sandwich to fuel up.
The flight was smooth, though I took my first dose of Diamox at 8 AM. It’s a must for AMS, taken twice daily starting 24 hours before your climb. It made me feel a bit floaty, and the plane’s descent hit my ears harder than usual, but it was manageable. Landed in KK at noon, and Siti mentioned feeling numbness in her fingertips, which is apparently a common Diamox side effect.
At the airport, we met Francis and Mimi, our cheerful organizers. They whisked us away for the three-hour drive to Kundasang. Along the way, we stopped to stock up on essentials like water, snacks, and a few first-aid items and took a short break at Jambatan Tamparuli.
In Kundasang, we grabbed a late lunch and packed dinner at a cozy café with a stunning view of Mount Kinabalu. Seeing her towering presence made me teary-eyed. Tomorrow, inshaAllah, I’d be starting my journey to her summit.
We settled into Bayu Senja for the night. Nothing fancy, just a place to rest. After packing and prepping for the climb, I felt calm and ready. I had done my best to prepare and now placed my trust in Allah for the journey ahead.
27/8/2024: Day 2, The Climb to Panalaban
Francis and Mimi fetched us for breakfast, where I took my second Diamox. I kept telling myself, it’s just another hike. One foot in front of the other.
At the office, we met our guide and porter. Our bags were weighed, and they came up to 23 kg, including water. We paid RM44 per kilogram for the porter service, and honestly, it was worth every sen. A pickup truck took us to Timpohon Gate, the trailhead, about 15 minutes away.
Our guide was a seasoned local and part of MOSAR. He was calm and confident, which made all the difference when the climb got tough.
The trail to Panalaban is 6 km, mostly steep steps through lush montane forest. Here’s a quick breakdown of the journey:
- KM1, Pondok Kandis: A good warm-up with moderate inclines.
- KM2, Pondok Ubah: A shaded area where we refueled with snacks.
- KM3, Pondok Lowii: Steeper terrain with breathtaking views of the surrounding valleys.
- KM4, Pondok Mempening: The weather started to cool noticeably here.
- KM5, Pondok Layang-Layang: A major milestone where the vegetation starts thinning.
- KM6, Panalaban: We arrived around 6 PM, drenched from the rain and shivering in the cold.
The air grew thinner as we climbed, making every step feel heavier. By the time we reached Panalaban, I was utterly exhausted but not hungry thanks to constant snacking at each checkpoint.
We checked into our modest hostel, a two-bedder, and had an early dinner at the restaurant. Tomorrow’s summit push awaited, and we’d meet our guide at 2 AM. Hiring him to carry our belongings was the best decision ever.
28/8/2024: Day 3, Summit Day
Woke up at 2:30 AM after what felt like an ice shower, thanks to Sutera Lodge’s water heater issues. Surprisingly, it helped with muscle recovery and made me feel fresher.
By 3:30 AM, we were on the trail with no cut-off time since we were staying an extra night at SSL. The journey from Panalaban to the summit was otherworldly.
We reached Sayat-Sayat Checkpoint at 7.2 km by 5:30 AM, just as the sun started to rise. The scene was surreal, with clouds beneath us and the golden glow of sunrise above. I prayed Subuh here, overwhelmed with gratitude and tears. Months of training had led to this moment.
From Sayat-Sayat to the summit, the trail turned into bare granite with ropes to guide the way. The air grew thinner, and the weather changed rapidly. One moment, the skies were clear, and the next, clouds rolled in. Alhamdulillah, we summited just as the skies cleared briefly for photos.
Tips for Hiking Mount Kinabalu
Trail Overview:
Day 1, Timpohon Gate to Panalaban (6 km). The forest trail is a mix of wooden stairs and periodic shelters every 1 km.
Day 2, Panalaban to Summit (2.7 km). The terrain shifts to steep granite slabs with ropes for support. The high altitude makes breathing harder.
Day 3, Descent from Summit to Timpohon Gate (8.7 km). The journey down is long and can be tough on the knees.
What to Wear:
Hike to Panalaban:
Light hiking gear. Bring a raincoat and a light windbreaker for the chilly KM4-KM6 stretch.
Summit Day:
- Base layer: Uniqlo Heattech Ultra Warm
- Mid layer: Hiking shirt and pants
- Outer layer: Windbreaker or down jacket
- Beanie, gloves, neck warmer, and Heattech socks
Layer wisely. You’ll warm up as you climb, so it’s better to start cold and add layers when needed. Always pack rain protection and snacks to keep your energy up.
Mount Kinabalu to me isn’t just a hike. It’s a humbling, unforgettable experience that has helped me conquer my own self limiting beliefs. I am definitely taking what i've learned here and applying it to my daily lives.
Until part 2. I'll share my journey down and the sweetest home-coming celebration ever.
Realtor On Trails!
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